Permanently Repairs Steel, Aluminum,
Fiberglass and Plastic Gas Tanks
Phenol Novolac Epoxies are a new breed of
chemical resistant materials, able to withstand permanent immersion of many
harsh solvents, fuels and oils. This Epoxy has much better bond strength than
single component products, with strengths of up to 3000 PSI, and this higher
strength reduces the need for a clinically clean surface, as the epoxy actually
prefers to bond to a rough rusty surface. Our new phenol novolac is more
thixotropic, which means it 'hangs' on the tank walls during the coating
process. This gives a thicker overall coating. There is more volume of material
in the kit to allow for this.
What else can you use Gas Tank Sealer for?
- A corrosion and chemical resistant coating. ie:
- A high strength adhesive where plenty of
working time is needed.
- A potting compound, to encapsulate electronics
- A non-skid surface, just bed in aluminum
- Relining old potato peeler machines (Hobart
type) - coat liner and bed in aluminum oxide.
- Repair leaks in concrete vessels. Add fine
sand to make a mortar.
- Bonds to almost anything except polyethylene
(gas tanks are not made of polyethylene). Bonds to wood, plastic, rubber,
- Making high quality molds - virtually no
shrinkage on curing.
- Thin cross section repair of sheared parts,
such as; broken cups, dishes, or a split leg on a chair.
All traces of oil and gasoline should first be
removed by pouring about 1 pint of acetone or lacquer thinner into the tank, and
rotating the tank several times to thoroughly sluice the sides with solvent.
Dispose of the contaminated solution.
When recoating your gas tank from failed Kreem or
POR-15 tank sealers, remove the old, failed coating using a paint stripper
containing Methylene Chloride.
Place a hand full of drywall screws into the tank
and shake them around vigorously for several minutes. These will dislodge any
loose particles of rust. In the case of Fiberglass and plastic tanks, this will
rough up the tank interior, improving adhesion.
Rinse out the tank with about 1-pint of acetone
or lacquer thinner, then set aside and allow to dry. Use an airline to blow air
into the tank to aid drying.
Apply duct tape or masking tape to any weeping
seams, holes or porous areas. This will stop any Gas Tank Sealer from oozing
out, and will allow it to bridge over the hole. Plug the outlet ports with putty
or Play-Doh. Mix up the required amount of Gas Tank Sealer (one unit should
treat two small motorcycle tanks or one large one) If you are only treating ONE
small tank, then divide parts A & B in half. You could use a dipstick to gauge
In a separate plastic container (margarine tub
etc.) mix the two parts together thoroughly for at least 2 minutes. Scrape
around the sides to ensure all resin is blended together. BAD MIXING AND BAD
MEASURING IS THE #1 CAUSE OF FAILURE!!
Pour into the tank, then immediately seal up the
filler hole with Gladwrap and an elastic band. Swill the tank around in every
direction for several minutes to obtain a good layer of Gas Tank Sealer over all
surfaces. Remove the filler cap, Gladwrap seal, and pour out any excess. Allow
to drain upside down for a few minutes.
If you have a built in fuel filter, blow air into the fuel line port for about
10 minutes. This will clear the filter of any Gas Tank Sealer.
Scrape off any excess with a sharp knife at this
point (usually about 40-60 Min after mixing) Place the tank in a warm 70-90 f
place and allow to cure overnight. In the case of alcohol fuels, allow 3-5 days
at room temperature, or 24 hours at 120 deg f.